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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.